Washington, D.C. - Climbers will be able to use fixed anchors again in federally-managed climbing areas, after a nearly 15 year ban, according to a new ruling from the National Park Service. This decision affects climbing areas in Yosemite, Grand Teton, Zion, Joshua Tree and Canyonland National Parks.
The original ban, handed down in 1998, covered permanent bolts, pitons and nuts. In 2007, the Bureau of Land Management weakened the ban somewhat, but because there was only one major climbing destination on BLM land—Red Rock, Nevada—the 2007 ruling had little impact.
The NPS decision, part of a larger wilderness stewardship plan, says that temporary anchors are still preferrable, and their use should be encouraged wherever possible. Parks will be able to authorize zones for fixed anchors, instead of a previously-floated plan to only authorize them on a route-by-route basis. As parks set up their management plans, interim fixed-anchor permits will be authorized.